Newsletter Articles
Please enjoy some archived newsletter articles about Shelties performing in a variety of different sports
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Lure Coursing Shelties
by Linda Rorem
Lure coursing for all dogs has been added to the AKC performance program. Now all breeds and mixes can participate in a fast-paced, fun activity based on the lure coursing trials provided for sighthounds. Many Shelties are taking quickly to this new opportunity.
In the Coursing Ability Test (CAT), the dog runs alone, unlike the sighthound coursing trials where dogs run in twos and threes. To pass, the dog must pursue the lure enthusiastically and without interruption, completing the run within the time limit. The first level title, Coursing Ability (CA), is earned by passing three times. Coursing Ability Advanced (CAA) is earned by passing ten times, and Coursing Ability Excellent (CAX) is earned with 25 passing runs. While the coursing trials are scored competitively, the Coursing is run on a pass/fail basis. CATs may be held by licensed lure coursing clubs either as stand-alone events or in conjunction with a licensed lure coursing trial.
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The courses are laid out in a large field, which may be fenced or unfenced. A light, long cord runs on a pulley system in a continuous loop from a motorized machine through spools set into the ground alongside cones that mark the course. There are straightaways, several turns, and sometimes cross-overs. Fastened to the line is a lure consisting of a set of white plastic bags that serve as the “prey.” The operator of the machine sits up high for a good view and controls the speed of the lure. CAT courses are shorter than those in the sighthound lure coursing trials and there are no turns sharper than 90 degrees. Dogs that measure more than 12 inches at the shoulder run a course of approximately 600 yards, which must be completed within two minutes. Dogs under 12 inches and dogs of short-muzzled breeds run approximately 300 yards within a time limit of 1-1/2 minutes.
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At the beginning of the event, each dog is checked for soundness of gait and bitches are checked to make sure they are not in season. Dogs with lameness are not allowed to run, nor are bitches in season. The participating dogs are run one at a time, following a posted run order. As the preceding dog finishes the course, is leashed and leaves the field, at the direction of a steward the next dog is brought to the starting point, where the judge waits and can provide any additional information if needed. At the start, the dog is held by the handler next to the line and a little back from the lure. At the word “tally-ho” from the judge, the lure starts off and the dog is slipped to begin the pursuit. While it isn’t required, a quick-release collar specially designed for lure coursing is fun to use (and many are decorative like this one, which Jet’s Samoyed friend Bode shares with her). The base of the strap is attached to one ring. The free end is put through the second ring, the strap is doubled over, then the end goes back through the second ring and back through the first ring. The handler holds both the looped part and the end of the strap as he or she takes the dog to the starting point. When ready to release, the handler just drops the looped part, holding onto the end of the strap -- the strap slides through the rings and the dog is instantly freed while leaping into action.
For many dogs, little or no training is necessary. They see the movement of the lure and want to chase it. Some might need some encouragement and practice. At home, you can attach a plastic bag to a cord that is attached to a pole, and sweep it across the ground, encouraging the dog to chase it.
In lure coursing trials generally the ideal is for the dog to follow directly after the lure. Many Shelties, like many other herding dogs, may tend to cast out to one side or the other, trying to get around the lure as their herding instinct kicks in. Sometimes people have expressed a concern that lure coursing might be detrimental to the wider movement desired when sending a dog around livestock. I suppose this could be a possibility with some dogs if some care is not taken, but Jet easily distinguishes between the two activities, and lure coursing hasn’t affected the way she goes around or handles livestock.
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There are also the dogs, in any breed, who quickly figure out the game and will run partway out, anticipating the direction of the lure, then pause or even lie down, waiting for it to come back around. To try to prevent this habit from developing, the course designers try to use different layouts. If the dog does succeed in trying to ambush the lure and starts to pounce on it, it is quickly speeded up. Occasionally a dog will actually catch the lure, but it is just stopped, the dog lets go, and it is started up again, unless it is come off the track or there is some other complication. Safety is foremost, but there can be mishaps like tripping, or getting to close to the moving cord and getting a rope burn, but those occurrences are rare.
Some dogs don’t want to stop at the end of their run, so it is a good thing to have a recall on your dog for once the action ends. The operator of the machine may cause the lure to jerk back and forth to entice the dog to try to catch it, enabling the handler to catch the dog. Some sponsoring clubs exact a small fine if the dog can’t be caught within a few minutes.
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​My little blue merle girl Jet went to her first coursing event last January. I had a suspicion she would like this activity very much, as she is highly inclined to pursue anything that moves. She took to it at once. She keenly watched the lure going and coming, and when it was her turn, she immediately leaped into action. She followed the lure keenly, and was one of the “lure-herding” dogs. At the end of her run, panting and happy, she came around to the front as the lure stopped, and stopped herself right on command. She had two runs that day, morning and afternoon, and was keen and fast on both of them. She loves this sport, and has since run several more times, qualifying each time and earning her CA and legs toward her CAA. She is ready to go coursing any time!
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From the 2013 April-May-June AWSS Newsletter
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Tracking
by Penny Larson
TRACKING – when the first rains of the fall season come and are hard enough to beat down the star thistle and send the snakes into their holes, we pull the tracking equipment out of the garage cupboard, put on our boots and head for the fields. TRACKING – a sport where you and your dog are out in nature. TRACKING – something to do just with your dog and sometimes with a tracking buddy who helps to lay track and to figure out solutions to problems. TRACKING – where you can earn titles from AKC. TD and TDX are done in the field and VST is done on college campuses where dogs move from vegetation to pavement and back. The ultimate title is a CT – Champion Tracker.
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Tracking starts with your dog in a harness and on a leash. First time out, a ‘track’ can be just five steps with a piece of hotdog in each footprint and a ‘jackpot’ at the end. The hotdogs are there to get the dog to put his nose down on the ground and are gradually phased out. After the dog negotiates the five steps, the next ‘track’ can be 10 steps, then 20 – slowly increasing the distance and reducing the number of hotdog drops. As the distance and challenges increase, hotdogs (or some similar reward) are used to reward overcoming challenges (making turns, crossing roads, changes in terrain). There are different ways to train tracking, but the method we use is to increase the length of the track in a straight line, first into the wind and then with the wind at the dog’s back. Cross winds come later. After the dog can follow a straight track to its reward (usually a glove and breakfast!), corners are introduced. Each dog works at its own pace; some move along very quickly; others take more time and patience. The six foot leash is quickly exchanged for a 40 foot line. In early training, the handler stays close to the dog, but the ultimate goal/ requirement is that the handler be at least 20 feet back. The extra 20 feet or line gives the handler space to work with the dog negotiating turns.
My first sheltie, Katie (Trailwind Summer Sprite CDX NAJ), was definitely a guinea pig for me learning to train her to track. We never took any tests or got any titles, but I learned so much from her, and she had so much heart trying to do what I was trying to teach her. Some people can start a dog at the beginning of the season and take the TD test at the end; others take more than one season to be ready to be tested.
My second sheltie, Ryan, earned his TD in February 2002. I still remember the feeling as we took off down the track with the judges and everyone else at our backs. It was just the two of us on a beautiful morning out looking for a glove. The track was 460 yards, had four turns and the track layer had laid the track close to an hour before. He nailed it. It took longer to be ready to take our TDX test. Some of the obstacles were a challenge – crossing roads, vegetation changes, cross tracks, finding more articles, but, on our second attempt, he did it!!!! It was February 2009, 882 yards long and the track was over four hours old. The picture of him tracking up the ditch was at the beginning of the track, and we had just found the leather article. He is now 13 ½ and retired as VTCh Darrowby Tryan My Best CDX TDX RAE HT MX MXJ OF MXP MJP2 OFP CGC PD2.
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Next came Nick who proved to be the greatest challenge. He was really quite good at it, but his concentration and his work ethic in tracking left a bit to be desired. He got his TD quite easily in February 2005, but the TDX proved to be more difficult as he was so easily distracted and uninterested. I often was sure he knew where the track was, but he’d wander off to check out something else. It was suggested that I give up on him, but I think tracking takes perseverance. Finally, in February 2011, on his first attempt, he did it!! That log in the photo on page 1 was one of the obstacles – he went under, I went over. The track was 880 yards and 3.25 hours old. The last ‘job’ in tracking is to find the glove and indicate to the handler where it is.
That’s Nick proudly carrying his glove out of the field. He is now MACH ADCH Adohr In the Nick of Time, TDX MJC MXG MXF T2B2 RA HT CGC GM, SCH-Bronze, SACH-Bronze, JCH-Silver, RCH-Bronze, TM-Bronze, CL3 VT and still going strong at nine.
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​Now it's Drummer's turn. He got an introduction last season so, hopefully, he’ll remember some of what he learned then and make progress quickly enough to apply to be tested next February. He has started his competition career and is now Adohr Make a Joyful Sound OA AXJ OF CL1 PS1 PJ1. But for tracking, first, we have to wait for the rains.
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Shelties & Herding
by Linda Rorem
While the modern Shetland Sheepdog has been primarily a show dog and companion, numerous Shelties demonstrate their herding ability when given the opportunity.
Many Shelties have done the work of general-purpose farm dogs, tending sheep and other livestock, the tasks varying according to the needs of the farms and ranches where they lived. From early in the 20th century comes an account of a Sheltie who -- as has been the case with many -- found a job that needed doing. Croxton Smith, in Everyman's Book of the Dog (1910), relates:
“When Shetland Collies were first talked about I sought some information from Mr. Hector Whitehead, of Kingussie, who sent me the photograph of a dog weighing only 9 lb. In describing their characteristics he said: ‘They will clear a garden of hens by rounding them up and putting them into their run as scientifically as a Sheepdog would do sheep. In fact, to see “Olafssen” slouching along at my heels reminds every one of a Collie after a hard day's work. My hens live in a grass run, and get out into the vegetables sometimes. When they do “Olafssen” gets to work and drives them all into the corner where the gate is, then lies down and waits for some one to come along who will open the gate.’”
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​Similar accounts of working Shelties have appeared over the years, and some Shelties continue to work as practical farm and ranch dogs (most often in North America; in Shetland itself, as in most parts of Britain, the working dogs today are generally Border Collies or dogs of Border Collie type). As just one example, an acquaintance told me about seeing a large flock of sheep being moved through a little town in rural California. She paused a moment to catch a glimpse of the dog which she knew would soon appear, and rather than the Border Collie or Australian Shepherd she was expecting, she saw a Sheltie moving the flock along.
In recent years an interest has developed in herding trials and similar activities aimed at preserving and evaluating the natural abilities of working breeds. Owners of Shelties have been supportive of these developments, with many Shelties taking part. In North America there are programs which offer herding titles such as those of the Australian Shepherd Club of America (which allows all breeds to participate), the American Herding Breed Association (open to all breeds), and the American Kennel Club and Canadian Kennel Club (open to dogs registered with those registries), as well as a number of trials held by other organizations that provide competition with prizes rather than titles. A variety of trial courses are offered, with classes on sheep, goats, cattle, ducks, geese, and sometimes even turkeys. Shelties, true to their heritage as an all-round farm dog, have proved adept at handling a wide range of animals. Shelties have worked successfully in all the programs and on all the courses. Particularly suited to them are the ranch/farm courses -- ASCA, AHBA and the CKC have such courses, and the traditional French trials are also of this type -- that involve working larger groups of animals over a task-oriented course that varies according to the location where it is being held. These courses, with their emphasis on practical work and working in a partnership, fit well with the natural tendencies of the Sheltie.
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Herding instinct is largely inherited; it must be there to be shaped, although the dog’s experiences can have a great impact. Shelties can be impressionable dogs, with early experiences having a long-lasting effect. Some, if only first introduced to stock at several years of age, may show bits and pieces of herding behaviors but not see the livestock as something "herdable." Thus, the dog that is said to "herd the cat at home" may not end up working sheep (and cat-herding trials are not a viable proposition!). It is not uncommon for an older Sheltie to require a few experiences with stock for the instinct to surface. Other Shelties, however, will start right in at any age. In addition to the natural desire to work with and control livestock, the herding dog also needs to have a willingness to work with their human partner. A stable, confident temperament and sound body are important.
There are Shelties that are full of self-confidence and will readily face up to a stubborn animal, others that will hesitate if a sheep balks or stamps at them, and many gradations in between. The less-confident dogs will need support in learning how to deal with obstreperous animals, while the strong, pushy dog will need guidance in learning to apply the appropriate amount of pressure as needed.
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In early training, it is important to know the dog's natural tendencies and to take them into consideration in training, while working on overall development and improvement. At higher levels, the dog should be able to do what is required by the situation. Many of the training techniques being used today have been used in a more widespread, systematic manner only in fairly recent times. In earlier times (and often still today) the training usually was of a somewhat haphazard, learn-as-one-does type. Over time, principles of training and techniques were developed and disseminated. Many of these techniques were first outlined by Border Collie trainers, but many of the elements are beneficial to other breeds in producing a well-rounded, well-trained herding dog. Adjustments will be made, however; stages of training may be different, particular emphases may be altered.
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As with any breed, Shelties are very much individuals, and the way to approach training may vary from dog to dog and may also vary according to what is needed in the particular situation. In my own case, in general I will first work on gathering or fetching (the dog bringing the sheep toward the handler) with the goal of developing balance and the ability to cover and control the stock. It will depend on the individual dog at what point some particular aspect of training is introduced or practiced.
In the case of a dog which has a strong gathering tendency, one is working with the dog's instinct and establishing control before the dog is asked to do work on command that is contrary to its natural inclinations; and in the case of the dog with less of a gathering tendency, it is important to encourage and preserve the gathering ability before going on to driving (moving the sheep away from the handler). If the gathering ability is not developed and the dog is encouraged instead to do a great deal of driving at the very beginning, it may lead to a deficiency in the ability to collect and control the stock and the dog may end up only pushing the animals with little influence on their direction of travel. On the other hand, with dogs that do have a strong tendency to gather, I may start training to drive sooner, because waiting longer may make it more difficult to teach driving.
As a general pattern for a training session, I like to start with something easy and familiar (basic fetching and balancing, perhaps), then work on something more difficult or challenging, then end with something easy again. The overall session shouldn't be too long, again depending on the dog, with several shorter sessions generally being better than one very long one. Along with sessions that are more particularly training sessions, I like to do practical work as much as possible. Shelties appreciate having a job to do, as opposed to repetitive drilling.
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The naturally talented, self-confident, focused and willing dog should be sought out at every opportunity, greatly appreciated, and encouraged in breeding. But all dogs of course have greater and lesser talents, with areas of strength and areas needing improvement. In some cases a dog may fit only in a limited situation, in others it may have broader abilities. In any case, the focus and goal should always be on quality work and consideration for the animals.
The above can barely scratch the surface of the complexities involved. It is fascinating to see the development of a dog's skills as it gains experience. One characteristic I have seen in many Shelties and that I have appreciated in my own dogs is a sense of perspective. When there is a job to do, they are very eager to do it and will work hard and long. But when work time is over, they are perfectly happy to take it easy. Above all, Shelties want to be with you and work with you.
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From the Jan-Feb-March 2012 AWSS Newsletter
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K9 Nosework & Shelties, Perfect Together!
by Lisa Mason Stoddard
When you order your cup of coffee in the morning and you take the first whiff, you know whether or not that teaspoon of sugar you asked for was put in by the barista. Well, your dog’s nose is able to tell if that same teaspoon of sugar is in the equivalent of two Olympic-size swimming pools of coffee. While you can smell that beef stew cooking in your kitchen, your dog’s nose can smell each individual ingredient and spice. That is just how amazing your dog’s sense of smell can truly be… why not have fun with that natural talent and try nose work!
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Nose work is a relatively new sport that is taking off in leaps and bounds! If you have a sheltie that loves food and is eager to learn, you’re off to a good start! Nose work is great for anyone, even extremely high drive dogs. It is good for building a bond with your dog or helping them to build their self confidence. It is a low-impact activity that is great for retired dogs who still want to have a job. It is also a great sport if you have an aggressive or reactive dog. The trials are designed with special parking, potty and practice areas for these dogs. They wear a red bandana during the trial to indicate that these dogs need extra personal space and to take special care when you see them.
To get started all you need for your sheltie is a buckle collar or harness and at least a 6’ leash; long lines and flexi leads are good, too. Nose work is basically a game of hide-and-seek that uses the dog’s natural instincts. You start off with cardboard boxes and their favorite treat. The dogs very quickly learn the game of finding the one box amongst all the others with the treat inside. You then progress to hiding the treats in other containers, inside, outside and on vehicles. Nose work classes at your local dog-training schools will show you methods used to help the dogs learn to play the hide-and-seek games and when to properly reward them for finding the correct locations.
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​​​Ooh That Smell… Can’t You Smell that Smell…?
Once the dog learns the game, you will start including scents in with the treats so they start to recognize the odors that are required for nose work competitions. The three scents used are all oils: Birch, Anise and Clove. Scents are trained in that order. A few drops of the oils are placed on a couple of Q-tips and the Q-tips are hidden instead of the treats. The treats will now only be used as a reward for correctly indicating where the Q-tip with the scent is hidden. Starter kits, like this one below, can be ordered on line for in-home training. www.leerburg.com or www.nacsw.net .
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Calling the ALERT!
Working as a team your dog learns to bring out and improve his/her natural hunting drive while the handler improves his/her skills of observation. The handler learns to read the dog’s body language and indicators when they have ALERTed the handler of the hide. A dog’s individual natural indicators vary and can be anything from pawing at a hide, sticking their nose on a hide, sitting, laying down or even looking up at the handler, etc. Because some dogs can be very quick indicating on a hide, the handler may miss it. A trained indicator is usually not taught to the dogs in nose work. This is so that the dog does not give a false indication out of frustration and only wanting that treat. It takes time and a good observation of your dog’s body language to read these signs, but you will learn quickly to trust your dog and know when to call the ALERT.
Remember they are the one with the “nose” in nose work!
When you and your sheltie are well trained, you are now ready for your ORT (Odor Recognition Test).
An ORT is required before you can compete in a nose work trial to prove to the judges that your dog recognizes the scent and understands their job. These tests consist of 12 uniform boxes and hiding in one of them is that Q-Tip with the scent. The first ORT scent you can test for is Birch; they must pass Birch before you can trial in Nose Work 1. The next ORT is for Anise and finally Clove, but you can have them tested for all three scents at one ORT if you feel your dog is ready.
Nose Work Trials
Whether you are entered in a Nose Work 1, 2 or 3 trial, they all consist of four types of search elements: containers, interior, exterior and vehicle.​​
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Containers
Containers can be a variety of items of various sizes and made of different materials. Your dog must locate the correct container hiding the source of the scent inside and at that time you must say “ALERT” based on the dog’s indicating.
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Interior
Interior searches are hidden out of sight and may be anywhere in the designated room. The dog searches the room and again indicates to you where the source is hidden and you call “ALERT”.
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Exterior
Exterior searches are just that, outside in a designated area. Just like interior the source can be hidden any where in that designated area: sidewalk crack, in tree bark, in the grass, on a light pole, a picnic table, etc.
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Vehicles
Vehicle searches are done with up to three vehicles. The source is never hidden inside of the vehicle, but can be placed part way under the vehicle. Wheel wells, bumpers, tow hitches, door frames, etc., are a few of the places for hides.
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Nose work 1, 2 and 3 trials
In Nose work 1 your dog only searches for the source of Birch with only one hide in each element listed above.
In Nose work 2 you and your dog search for both Birch and Anise.
In Nose work 3 all three scents, Birch, Anise and Clove, are searched for in every element listed above.
In nose work 2 and 3, to make the searches more challenging, along with the hidden scents are some distractions, including things like food or animal scents. In nose work 3 they also have “clean or blank” rooms with no scents hidden in them and your dog must not alert in these situations. In these searches you do not call alert but would call the room “CLEAN”.
Nose work is a great sport for the dog and the handler alike. This is one sport where the dog has more natural knowledge and an advantage over the handler. Every pure bred or mix breed dog can participate in nose work and benefit from the teamwork. So if you are interested in nose work please look into it and get out there and get sniffing!
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​​The organization that we belong to is NACSW (National Association of Canine Scent Work) www.nacsw.net and the descriptions listed above are based on that organization’s rules.
The United Kennel Club has started a nose work program: http://www.ukcdogs.com/Web.nsf/WebPages/DogEvents/Nosework
And headquartered in Canada but also sanctioning events in the U.S. as well is the Sporting Detection Dogs Association: http://www.sportingdetectiondogs.ca/
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From the 2013 July-Aug-Sept AWSS Newsletter
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Shelties and the Northern California French Trials
by Linda Rorem
Herding trials in France began over a hundred years ago. The traditional trials use large flocks and reflect the practices needed for taking sheep out during the day to be tended as they graze in unfenced fields. In the plains regions, sheep were grazed in compact groups so they would thoroughly mow the field a section at a time, and the dogs also had to keep the sheep from straying into any neighboring crops. In mountain regions, where the vegetation would not support intense grazing, the sheep were allowed to scatter more and the dogs might have to go out at a distance to gather them. Originally the trials only had one level, advanced, but later three levels were developed, I II and III, for started, intermediate and advanced.
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In the early 1990’s Terrie Van Alen, president of the Northern California Shetland Sheepdog Herding Club, began corresponding with a Sheltie owner in France. I had also had some contact with people in France due to my interest in herding practices in different countries. As a result of further correspondence, a plan developed to hold an all-breed trial based on the French traditional large-flock trials, to be sponsored by the NCSSHC and the American Herding Breed Association.
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The first French-style large flock herding trial in North America was held in the fall of 1995 at Shepard Ranch in Santa Rosa, California. The Northern California French trials have been held annually since that time. In 1997, Paul LeGoff came from France to judge at Pescadero, returning to judge in 1999 at Pescadero and at Paicines. Michel Pillard came to judge at Pescadero in 2000 and came back to California to judge in 2011, at Wilton that year. Jean-Michel Jolly came to Wilton in 2010. In the other years, local AHBA judges were used, but all efforts were made to adhere to the rules of the French herding authorities, including using the score sheets used in France. On three occasions – 2003, 2005, and 2009 – the annual French-style trial was held in Gardnerville, Nevada, a little south of Reno.
From 1996 through 2006 the trials were sanctioned by the AHBA for the Herding Ranch Dog title. With the advent of the Ranch Large Flock title in 2007, the sanction has been for the RLF title. In 2005 geese were added to the trials and the large flock goose class has continued to be an enjoyable part of the event. Geese are not used in trials in France, but regularly appear in herding demonstrations there. One year they did take part in a trial in France, however, in that one of the tasks in the trial was to take the flock of sheep past a flock of geese being held in place on the course by another dog and shepherd.
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Shelties love large-flock work, which gives them an opportunity to work with initiative and in a free-moving manner. They relate very well to the practical-task orientation. These kinds of trials are well suited to the natural talents of the Sheltie.
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